Showing posts with label leather. Show all posts
Showing posts with label leather. Show all posts

Saturday, 29 December 2018

Davidoff (1984): A Review ....



Davidoff (1984), often referred to as "Davidoff Classic" or simply "Davidoff" is the first perfume released by Davidoff, in 1984. Davidoff was a perfume made for and marketed to men; Fragrantica lists the perfumer to be Edouard Flechier, whose many other creations I happen to enjoy. Davidoff has unfortunately been discontinued, a while back it seems, though it still hasn't attained unicorn status. 

This, right here, is probably the most glorious example of what a citrus leather can be. This is no Bel Ami, where citrus is just a brief prelude. This is a no holds barred citrus aromatic floral leather with a big punch of oakmoss. In fact, I primarily think of it as a neon green citrus in the best possible way, lit up by a heady mix of florals with the darker notes of leather and moss lurking underneath. That doesn't perhaps describe how it actually smells like - it is sophisticated, but, more than anything else, incredibly suave and smooth. Something that I'd tag as 'something classic, something Italian'. Yes, Versace L'Homme and Moschino pour Homme are in the same genre, but the Moschino is more subdued and restrained with less of the citrus. And, Versace L'Homme is a bright, big lemon-leather, but the Davidoff is a tad more complex. What I find absolutely incredible here is that the lime stands out, together with lemon, and the citrus notes are deftly supported by herbs that lend a certain ruggedness, a refined aura, and furthermore accentuated by a bouquet of carnation and jasmine that add a sheen and radiance that is unique, a brilliance that is found in only rare gems like Givenchy's Insense. Moreover, the in the mid phase and in the later dry down, there is a hint of a tobacco note, a genius allusion that is not often encountered in modern scents. 

I usually reach for the Davidoff in cold weather, though it does just as well in the heat. It has an extended duration on skin of over eight hours, and the projection is very strong with thick sillage for the first three to four hours, though it later calms down appreciably. I've surprisingly been complimented (something that very rarely happens) on this scent many times by different people. The personality of this scent is very much masculine, perhaps someone a bit more dashing than reserved, with a sharp suit, patent leather dress shoes and stainless steel watch, and a sports car. It does smell a lot like several other 80s fragrances, but it has aged better than many others, and is more than just nostalgia. I would mention that Vermeil pour Homme is in very similar ballpark, with a more noticeable tobacco note and toned down florals, and sort of a 2D interpretation of Davidoff. I would also note Christopher Street (Charenton Macerations) to be a modern mossy citrus leather with florals that could be imagined to be a contemporary interpretation of Davidoff. 

Davidoff is one of those very rare examples where everything comes together to create a remarkable perfume. In my view, it is as good as anything Davidoff has ever brought to the market. I always find it to be uplifting and reassuring, and it never fails to puts me in the mood to go out and see more of this world. 


4/5

Wednesday, 31 October 2018

Jacques Bogart ('classic' / 'signature')




Bogart (1975) has been around for some time, and thankfully it smells as such. It's often referred to as 'classic' (maybe because of its age, or that it has a classic style) or 'signature' (the box shows a signature laid down by a nondescript fountain pen). Bogart is an old-fashioned mossy leather scent, supported with notes of lemon, rosemary, herbs, mild spices and a touch of florals - all seamlessly blended. There is a crisp freshness about it, a quality I often associate with aftershaves. I love most aftershaves. 

Bogart is surprisingly affordable, in most places. I also believe it to be reasonably distributed and available in several countries. It makes for an effortless, versatile scent, subtle and discreet but with adequate presence and duration. For anyone looking to establish or expand their scent wardrobe, this right here is a great starting point.