Saturday, 29 December 2018

Davidoff (1984): A Review ....



Davidoff (1984), often referred to as "Davidoff Classic" or simply "Davidoff" is the first perfume released by Davidoff, in 1984. Davidoff was a perfume made for and marketed to men; Fragrantica lists the perfumer to be Edouard Flechier, whose many other creations I happen to enjoy. Davidoff has unfortunately been discontinued, a while back it seems, though it still hasn't attained unicorn status. 

This, right here, is probably the most glorious example of what a citrus leather can be. This is no Bel Ami, where citrus is just a brief prelude. This is a no holds barred citrus aromatic floral leather with a big punch of oakmoss. In fact, I primarily think of it as a neon green citrus in the best possible way, lit up by a heady mix of florals with the darker notes of leather and moss lurking underneath. That doesn't perhaps describe how it actually smells like - it is sophisticated, but, more than anything else, incredibly suave and smooth. Something that I'd tag as 'something classic, something Italian'. Yes, Versace L'Homme and Moschino pour Homme are in the same genre, but the Moschino is more subdued and restrained with less of the citrus. And, Versace L'Homme is a bright, big lemon-leather, but the Davidoff is a tad more complex. What I find absolutely incredible here is that the lime stands out, together with lemon, and the citrus notes are deftly supported by herbs that lend a certain ruggedness, a refined aura, and furthermore accentuated by a bouquet of carnation and jasmine that add a sheen and radiance that is unique, a brilliance that is found in only rare gems like Givenchy's Insense. Moreover, the in the mid phase and in the later dry down, there is a hint of a tobacco note, a genius allusion that is not often encountered in modern scents. 

I usually reach for the Davidoff in cold weather, though it does just as well in the heat. It has an extended duration on skin of over eight hours, and the projection is very strong with thick sillage for the first three to four hours, though it later calms down appreciably. I've surprisingly been complimented (something that very rarely happens) on this scent many times by different people. The personality of this scent is very much masculine, perhaps someone a bit more dashing than reserved, with a sharp suit, patent leather dress shoes and stainless steel watch, and a sports car. It does smell a lot like several other 80s fragrances, but it has aged better than many others, and is more than just nostalgia. I would mention that Vermeil pour Homme is in very similar ballpark, with a more noticeable tobacco note and toned down florals, and sort of a 2D interpretation of Davidoff. I would also note Christopher Street (Charenton Macerations) to be a modern mossy citrus leather with florals that could be imagined to be a contemporary interpretation of Davidoff. 

Davidoff is one of those very rare examples where everything comes together to create a remarkable perfume. In my view, it is as good as anything Davidoff has ever brought to the market. I always find it to be uplifting and reassuring, and it never fails to puts me in the mood to go out and see more of this world. 


4/5

Thursday, 6 December 2018

Sel Marin by Heeley: A Review



Sel Marin is a breezy, salty aquatic with no calone, some wet, green, mossy notes and an extended dry down. Contrary to others' views, I do not find Sel Marin to be a realistic representation of sea or beaches. It is more of an abstract interpretation. This abstraction is evident in the way the citrus notes (lemon and bergamot) are handled - they lose their atypical characteristics to become a part of the central accord of the composition. The most prominent actor is the salty effect, which is novel but can be sharp or synthetic to some. Many will revere or dislike Sel Marin largely because of it. In my mind Sel Marin is the mood of being on a desolate beach on a cool, cloudy day. As the hours pass by the fragrance quietens down, the salty shrillness makes way for soft notes of moss, wood and musk. 

Sel Marin is stylistically very different from the other aquatics flooding the market - it has no sweetness, no calone, no fruity element, it's not stereotypical and it is more reflective and introspective. I find it to be similar to Sel de Vetiver, but Sel Marin is much more compelling and well crafted. I find Sel Marin to have low projection. I also thought it to be lacking in longevity, but that is not actually the case - the issue is that it quickly becomes a skin scent but persists for several hours. In summer it disappears from my skin in a quick three or four hours, but in slightly cooler weather it lingers on for at least seven or eight hours. I am not crazy about the salty aspect, I am okay with it. I wish it had a tad better projection in the dry down, but perhaps it was designed to be a skin scent. However, it does get noticed in close quarters, even after several hours. 

Sel Marin also bears some structural similarities with Cuir Pleine Fleur, but is not as complex or innovative. I am torn between a neutral and a thumbs up, but will go with the latter on account of two considerations. Yes, it is expensive, but Sel Marin is one of the nice, interesting and innovative summer fragrances (even though personally it's too weak in very hot weather, but then most scents are ...), especially among aquatics. The second reason is a personal one, and it reflects my attitude towards beaches. I'm not crazy about them, but I do like to visit one that is deserted on a cool, cloudy, nondescript summer day. 


3.5/5