Guerlain Homme L'eau Boisee

Photo Credits: Mae Mu

Whenever summer comes around, I occasionally yearn for a refreshing gin & tonic on hot afternoons; and Cuba Libres on sultry evenings, especially in late summer. Lime is the subtle but key ingredient in these cocktails, be it gin or rum; lime is also the central theme of Guerlain Homme L'eau Boiseé. Guerlain released its Homme line after L'Instant, and the Homme series is perhaps the last one from Guerlain that is worth a try. These compositions are very different in structure, composition and spirit from the classics like Habit Rouge and Heritage, or even L'Instant. The Homme series is themed around freshness and effervescence, and L'eau Boiseé is where these qualities are best showcased. 

When I tried Guerlain Homme, it felt interesting but also sharp and somewhat synthetic. Most of those issues are addressed in Guerlain Homme Intense. In L'eau Boiseé, the materials in Homme are toned down and given a lift. There's an abundance of lime and vetiver, but there are also notes of mint and rum. Lime is the central component; balanced between dry freshness and juiciness, it is airy and sparkling. The scent is largely linear, and dries down in a couple of hours to soft woods laced with lime. There is beauty in simplicity here. This fresh, clean, green scent is also an interesting counterpoint to the classic Guerlain Vetiver. 

As one might imagine, the Achilles' heel of this perfume is its lack of strength, especially presence; but was it meant to be a big perfume? While its sillage is soft and low key, L'eau Boiseé does hang around on skin for quite a few hours, effectively wearing as a light eau de toilette. A bit more potency would perhaps add vitality, but might something be lost?


3.5/5

Davidoff (1984): A Review ....

Photo Credits: Mia Guo

Davidoff (1984), often referred to as "Davidoff Classic" or simply "Davidoff" is the first perfume released by Davidoff, in 1984. Davidoff was a perfume made for and marketed to men; Fragrantica lists the perfumer to be Edouard Flechier, whose many other creations I happen to enjoy. Davidoff has unfortunately been discontinued, a while back it seems, though it still hasn't attained unicorn status. 

This, right here, is probably the most glorious example of what a citrus leather can be. This is no Bel Ami, where citrus is just a brief prelude. This is a no holds barred citrus aromatic floral leather with a big punch of oakmoss. In fact, I primarily think of it as a neon green citrus in the best possible way, lit up by a heady mix of florals with the darker notes of leather and moss lurking underneath. That doesn't perhaps describe how it actually smells like - it is sophisticated, but, more than anything else, incredibly suave and smooth. Something that I'd tag as 'something classic, something Italian'. Yes, Versace L'Homme and Moschino pour Homme are in the same genre, but the Moschino is more subdued and restrained with less of the citrus. And, Versace L'Homme is a bright, big lemon-leather, but the Davidoff is a tad more complex. What I find absolutely incredible here is that the lime stands out, together with lemon, and the citrus notes are deftly supported by herbs that lend a certain ruggedness, a refined aura, and furthermore accentuated by a bouquet of carnation and jasmine that add a sheen and radiance that is unique, a brilliance that is found in only rare gems like Givenchy's Insense. Moreover, the in the mid phase and in the later dry down, there is a hint of a tobacco note, a genius allusion that is not often encountered in modern scents. 

I usually reach for the Davidoff in cold weather, though it does just as well in the heat. It has an extended duration on skin of over eight hours, and the projection is very strong with thick sillage for the first three to four hours, though it later calms down appreciably. I've surprisingly been complimented (something that very rarely happens) on this scent many times by different people. The personality of this scent is very much masculine, perhaps someone a bit more dashing than reserved, with a sharp suit, patent leather dress shoes and stainless steel watch, and a sports car. It does smell a lot like several other 80s fragrances, but it has aged better than many others, and is more than just nostalgia. I would mention that Vermeil pour Homme is in very similar ballpark, with a more noticeable tobacco note and toned down florals, and sort of a 2D interpretation of Davidoff. I would also note Christopher Street (Charenton Macerations) to be a modern mossy citrus leather with florals that could be imagined to be a contemporary interpretation of Davidoff. 

Davidoff is one of those very rare examples where everything comes together to create a remarkable perfume. In my view, it is as good as anything Davidoff has ever brought to the market. I always find it to be uplifting and reassuring, and it never fails to puts me in the mood to go out and see more of this world. 


4/5

Sel Marin by Heeley: A Review

Photo Credits: Nikita Andreev

Sel Marin is a breezy, salty aquatic with no calone, some wet, green, mossy notes and an extended dry down. Contrary to others' views, I do not find Sel Marin to be a realistic representation of sea or beaches. It is more of an abstract interpretation. This abstraction is evident in the way the citrus notes (lemon and bergamot) are handled - they lose their atypical characteristics to become a part of the central accord of the composition. The most prominent actor is the salty effect, which is novel but can be sharp or synthetic to some. Many will revere or dislike Sel Marin largely because of it. In my mind Sel Marin is the mood of being on a desolate beach on a cool, cloudy day. As the hours pass by the fragrance quietens down, the salty shrillness makes way for soft notes of moss, wood and musk. 

Sel Marin is stylistically very different from the other aquatics flooding the market - it has no sweetness, no calone, no fruity element, it's not stereotypical and it is more reflective and introspective. I find it to be similar to Sel de Vetiver, but Sel Marin is much more compelling and well crafted. I find Sel Marin to have low projection. I also thought it to be lacking in longevity, but that is not actually the case - the issue is that it quickly becomes a skin scent but persists for several hours. In summer it disappears from my skin in a quick three or four hours, but in slightly cooler weather it lingers on for at least seven or eight hours. I am not crazy about the salty aspect, I am okay with it. I wish it had a tad better projection in the dry down, but perhaps it was designed to be a skin scent. However, it does get noticed in close quarters, even after several hours. 

Sel Marin also bears some structural similarities with Cuir Pleine Fleur, but is not as complex or innovative. I am torn between a neutral and a thumbs up, but will go with the latter on account of two considerations. Yes, it is expensive, but Sel Marin is one of the nice, interesting and innovative summer fragrances (even though personally it's too weak in very hot weather, but then most scents are ...), especially among aquatics. The second reason is a personal one, and it reflects my attitude towards beaches. I'm not crazy about them, but I do like to visit one that is deserted on a cool, cloudy, nondescript summer day. 


3.5/5

Infusion d'Homme

Photo Credits: Tycho Atsma

Now that the dust has settled on the first decade of this century, I find it easier to think about Infusion d'Homme in relation to what it captures for me, and how much I've remembered it. Among mainstream releases marketed to men, it is one of the best of that decade. I recall trying it many times at stores together with other perfumes, and its smell was always lost on the test strip: I simply couldn't smell anything in the olfactory cacophony of other perfumes sprayed in the same environment. 

A few years down the line I tried it from a small decant, received due to the courtesy of a Basenotes friend. I was struck by its soft-hazy yet clear form. It reminded me of Mugler Cologne because of the soap; however, while Mugler was fun and uplifting, Infusion d'Homme was sombre and introspective. I found it to bear some similarities with Bois d'Argent, in part because of the iris and the myrrh, and in part because of their personalities. Years later when I'd sampled Iris de Nuit, I found they sometimes speak in the same language, but always tell different stories. Infusion d'Homme was always compared to Prada Amber pour Homme, and they had many similarities, both being fresh, interesting and reminiscent of soap, but with one key difference: Amber pour Homme was warm and friendly, while Infusion d'Homme was cool and aloof. 

If you like Christian Dior's aesthetic of pale greys and pastel pinks, Infusion d'Homme could be for you. I find it soft yet gently persistent, with notes of clean iris, a light and moody incense, and a touch of myrrh; they together manage to create something airy, and an accord that is a dead ringer for soap. A good quality bar of white soap; very simple but quintessentially chic and androgynously beautiful. Yet, the most unique feature of this scent is its subtlety, and that, it is inoffensive and always appropriate; and another very interesting aspect is that it is clean, soapy yet shyly sensuous and intimate, while completely shunning any conventional notes used for such effects. On my skin it sits quietly with soft occasional wafts, and duration is moderate at about six hours. It's been one of my most worn scents, and it's been uplifting in the heat and comforting when cold. 

I once read a comment on a blog post about Infusion d'Homme: "young people, especially single, could use this". For some reason, those words have stayed with me; maybe because I did use it quite a bit in my twenties. These days I find it more calming than before; it reminds me of the cacophony that it got drowned in, and I connect it to the cacophony of a world that gets messier each day. It doesn't solve life's problems, but it is comforting. If I weren't nuts, I'd have worn it everyday. 



4.5/5


P.S. Infusion d'Homme has been discontinued. I have tried Infusion d'Iris Cedre on paper and on skin, and it is at least 98% identical. I attribute the difference of 2% to my vivid imagination. The prices are not identical.

Jacques Bogart ('classic' / 'signature')

Photo Credits: Joanna Kosinska

Bogart (1975) has been around for some time, and thankfully it smells as such. It's often referred to as 'classic' (maybe because of its age, or that it has a classic style) or 'signature' (the box shows a signature laid down by a nondescript fountain pen). Bogart is an old-fashioned mossy leather scent, supported with notes of lemon, rosemary, herbs, mild spices and a touch of florals - all seamlessly blended. There is a crisp freshness about it, a quality I often associate with aftershaves. I love most aftershaves. 

Bogart is surprisingly affordable, in most places. I also believe it to be reasonably distributed and available in several countries. It makes for an effortless, versatile scent, subtle and discreet but with adequate presence and duration. For anyone looking to establish or expand their scent wardrobe, this right here is a great starting point.

Hello ....

Welcome to my blog!

This blog is largely going to be about my musings on perfumes, one of my interests. More pertinently, it's something that I've been interested in for at least ten years. I intend to review some, talk about others, and go off in diverse directions but always return. 

Cheers!